An incredible but true fact is that most traditions of modern society have existed for more than a century; and sleepwear and pajamas are no exception.
Throughout the rest of human history, sleepwear has varied greatly, regardless of whether one is looking at Western, Eastern, or ancient culture. As a result of globalization, sleep habits have adapted and, compared to the past, significantly fewer differences in sleepwear can be observed. Here a brief history and evolution of pajamas will be presented.
The Private Past of the Pajama
Much of what history teaches is based on things left behind: artifacts, paintings, songs, and more. However, sleepwear was considered a private matter: any type of sleepwear was intended only for the eyes of the user and family. Because of this, there are few direct examples of what pajamas looked like five hundred years ago. Fortunately, there are many clues that can help imagine the pajamas of the past.
In the Middle Ages, most pajamas were bulky with simple adornments. They were made by the wives and daughters of the family, so it was important that they were easy to make. Only royalty and nobles wore pajamas that were more than a simple long dress. Their designs were inspired by Indian, Asian, and Roman costumes: large dress-shaped tunics with wide sleeves for greater comfort.
In fact, the word pajama is not of Western origin, but comes from the Hindi word "pae jama" or "pai jama," meaning trousers, and originated in the Ottoman Empire in the 13th century. Pajamas have traditionally been loose pants with a string or cord at the waist. They were worn by both women and men throughout the Middle East and South Asia, including Bangladesh, Pakistan, Iran, and southern India.
They were tight along the entire leg or wide at the waist and tight at the ankles. The pants were generally paired with a belted tunic that reached the user's knees. This combination was considered the best way to feel comfortable and clean at home and while sleeping. In the 14th and 15th centuries, Europeans discovered pajamas from these cultures and adapted them to their climates. By the 17th century, almost all Europeans wore a type of pajama similar to those worn in the Ottoman Empire.
The Invention of the Sewing Machine
It was not until the Middle Ages that pajamas really became fashionable and began to vary. The reason for the emergence of the first forms of modern pajamas was the combination within Western civilization, in the long term, of cold climate and the advent of the first forms of modern fashion.
Until the 18th century, most pajamas were simple long nightgowns. Perhaps the most important innovation for the pajama industry was the invention of the sewing machine and a change in Western culture: clothing was increasingly less sewn at home and was bought ready-made in stores; this concept did not exist before the 18th century.
During the next 200 years, the style of the most popular pajamas was largely determined by what culture considered "right," "wrong," "moral," or "immoral."
Sleepwear for Men
From the early 17th century to the mid-19th century, nightgowns resembled day shirts, with a lapel collar and deep neckline. More sophisticated nightgowns were decorated with lace on the sleeves and neckline. It was not until the late 19th century that nightgowns were offered in various fabrics such as flannel, percale, cotton, linen, and monochromatic or colored silk.
From the turn of the century, garments reaching the ankles were called "nightgowns." There were also longer variants reaching the floor known as "night skirts." In the first quarter of the 20th century, nightgowns and night skirts gradually went out of fashion and were replaced by what is now known as pajamas.
Sleepwear for Women
Men decorated their pajamas long before women did. While gentlemen of creation resorted to lace and adornments, women opted for simple and bulky dresses or nightgowns. The traditional nightgown was similar to the Indian banyan or Japanese kimono and looked like a loose dressing gown or a coat down to the calf with a thin belt or ribbon around the waist. Until the 20th century, nightgowns offered very little variety. One reason women experimented with pajamas so late was the patriarchal nature of Western society: many were afraid to appear as suffragists or members of the suffragist movement of the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
In the early 1900s, Coco Chanel was the first designer to create attractive pajamas for women and to convince women that pajamas can be as comfortable and beautiful as the traditional nightgown. Women's pajamas were officially launched in 1909, but it was not until the 1980s that they led nightgown sales.
The first version of this women's pajama was a combination of nightgown and pants: the top had a high collar and buttons in the front. The pajama had soft ruffles at the knees and wrists. Later versions had wide bishop sleeves and a colored ribbon around the waist.
The Transition to Modernity
The transition to modern pajamas in the 20th century meant abandoning old habits and a liberation of female sexuality. Two major trends dominated the mid-20th century: "babydoll" pajamas for women (a sleeveless blouse that reaches just below the hips) and men's pajama sets that replaced traditional men's nightgowns with the simple but comfortable military clothing of World War I.
In the 1970s, more and more people began wearing silk shirts inspired by Chinese and Indian sleepwear. Women also opted for the unisex look by wearing the same top and pants combination as men.
A Look to the Future of Pajamas
History shows that sleepwear remained unchanged for a long time. It was only with the invention of the sewing machine that variations appeared and a market for sleepwear emerged.
One trend that will continue in the future is the normalization of pajamas as everyday clothing, which can be worn both at home and in public. As traditional and formal norms loosen worldwide, more and more people have the courage to wear comfortable clothing, and at El Búho Nocturno, an extraordinary variety is offered that combines quality, comfort, and varied styles.